When I went to college, many of my peers had never done their own laundry. These classmates were suddenly faced with big bad laundry rooms juggling baskets of unsorted clothes and plastic baggies of quarters.
You might be surprised by how many people don’t know the basics of washing clothes. At first, it can seem like quite a daunting task.

washing clothes
Laundry Terror – photo by pasukaru76

Whether you know about washing clothes and just need some additional tips, or you’ve never touched a washing machine in your life, this article has something for you.

For those of you who know the basics of washing clothes already, focus out the tips and sidenotes.

1. Sort your dirty clothes by color. Before washing your clothes. sort them. You can either separate them into white and colors or white, bright colors, and dark colors. This is to avoid color from your clothing running and staining your whites in the wash.

Sorting Sidenote: I don’t always sort my items when washing my clothes. If I’m not doing a very large load of laundry I wash it all together. This is only okay to do if you wash on a cold setting (colors are less likely to run), you are not washing any of the clothes for the first time, and none of the clothing has specific care tag requirements that make this a bad idea.

Tip: As you are sorting you should also turn all clothing right side out, zip all zippers, and button all buttons. Turning the clothing will make it easier to fold when it comes out, and zipping and buttoning prevents snagging. Empty all the pockets before washing clothes too!

2. Pretreat any heavy stains you may have.  Do this before washing clothes to prevent the stain from setting.

3. Choose settings for the washing machine. When washing clothes, load size should indicate how much clothing you are putting in the washer at one time. Temperature settings are a bit more subjective. Cold water will make colors less likely to run. Hot or warm water will keep your whites whiter and kill germs in your washer.

Tip: Do not overload your washer when washing clothes. It is better to break a very large load into two smaller ones. An overloaded washer means your clothing won’t come out as clean.

Tip: Before washing any article of clothing, you should read the clothing tag. Some pieces of clothing cannot be machine-washed, some require cold or hot water only, and some have particular drying instructions. It’s important to follow these instructions.

4. Put the clothes into the washing machine. Pour detergent into the measuring cup based on your load size and then into the detergent dispenser (if your machine has one) or directly into the washer. Most machines have specific instructions, which you can find on the machine if you open the loading door. Once all the pieces are in, close, and let the machine do all the work!

Sidenote: In my washer, which does not have a dispenser, I like to start the water running before putting the clothes in. I add the detergent so the water starts becoming sudsy and then drop my clothes into that. If you choose to use this tip make sure you’ve got a top-loading washer!

5. After the washing cycle is complete, move your clothes into the dryer. Choose a temperature setting (low for delicates, medium for most clothing, and high for heavy cottons such as sheets and towels). Some items should not be dried in a dryer, but rather hung to air dry. The manufacturer’s tag will indicate this. It is common with some fabrics as well as delicates such as bras.

6. Clean out the lint filter before beginning the cycle. Throw in a dryer sheet and then press start!

7. Fold your laundry and put it away when it is dry. Voila! Clean laundry and the machines did most of the work.

You will have downtime when you are washing clothes so be prepared to use that time. Washing machine cycles usually last 30-45 minutes, while dryers take about an hour. You should plan to use that time, but don’t lose track of the time if you leave. (An egg timer can help if you’ll be too far away from the laundry room to hear the machine buzzer.) Clothes left long in the washer can become smelly. Clothes left long in the dryer form wrinkles. Plus, if you are using a public facility and it becomes crowded, people may move your laundry to a table so they can use the machine.

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Make sure you do a weekly kitchen cleaning even if your preventative measures (you are picking up, wiping spills and doing dishes daily, right?) are keeping your kitchen looking fairly approachable. As you are cleaning, do you best to work top to bottom in a circle around the room.

Many of the tasks below ask you to spray and wipe. You can either use retail all-purpose cleaner for this or a bleach and water cleaning mixture. When cleaning the kitchen it’s very important that, no matter what kind of cleaner you choose, it is one that not only cleans but also disinfects.

Your weekly cleaning should include all of the following tasks:
o Launder dishtowels, napkins, etc.
o Dishes (which should be done as part of your daily cleaning).
o Dust ceilings, doorways, tops of cabinets/fridge/shelves.
o Wipe down counters and everything on them including small appliances and canisters.
o Wipe down the outside and air vent of the fridge.
o Throw away expired items in the fridge and cupboards/pantry/shelves.
o Wipe down the inside of the fridge (if it needs it).
o Wipe down cabinets (if they need it — fingerprints, splatters, etc)
o Scrub the inside and outside of the microwave
o Check the inside of drawers for accidental spills
o Spray and wipe the stovetop including the hood and burners.
o Spray and wipe the outside of the oven.
o Clean the sink (powdered cleanser in the bowl, spray and wipe the rest)
o Clean windows
o Sweep and mop floors.

Other tasks such as the oven and major fridge clean out do not need to be done weekly, but should find a way into your schedule on a monthly or, at the least, biannual basis. Happy cleaning!

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There are predominately two major categories of leather: finished and unfinished. Most leather upholstery is finished leather, which is actually fairly easy to care for. Unfinished leather is found in boots, baseball gloves, etc and can be a bit trickier. We’ll cover unfinished leather in a separate article. Be aware that suede and rough/split leathers are a different story altogether, and should mostly be left to a professional cleaner to clean.

Your finished leather upholstered furniture should be cleaned with saddle soap or moisturizing soap once a year. You may want to dust off the leather before beginning, then work up a lather with the soap by rubbing it with a damp (not wet) clean cloth. Wipe off the lather with another clean damp cloth and then buff with a dry clean cloth.

Some people recommend treating your leather with a leather preservative at this point, such as mink oil or shoe polish, however such preservatives will just make a mess on your finished leather furniture. You can use a conditioner on your leather instead, or leave it untreated as long as it is not starting to dry out. There are several finished leather conditioners sold in stores. You can also use a VERY small amount of olive oil to restore moisture if on a budget.

After cleaning and possibly conditioning your leather, let it dry, but never dry with a heat source. Always allow leather to air dry or buff it dry with a soft cloth. Excessive heat can cause leather to dry up and crack. Along the same vein, avoid excessive sun exposure by placing your leather furniture out of the sun or closing blinds when you are not home. Leather should never be contained in plastic, as it is important for it to breathe.

A few extra tips:

For leather that is starting to dry out:
Use a leather conditioner designed to restore moisture in furniture as discussed above.

For spills:
Most spills on finished leather can be wiped off with a damp cloth. Some spot cleaning can be done with a small amount of rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab.
There are also many professional cleaners that can deal with stains in leather and most people recommend that you leave the really bad stains, such as ink, to them.

Final Advice:
It is always a good idea to test your cleaning method on a small out of the way area of the leather before going at your whole couch with it.

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The toilet often seems like the most daunting task of all when it comes to cleaning, which is understandable considering what the toilet is used for.  However, never fear!, toilet bowls and tanks are usually made of nonporous material which is easy to clean.  To ease the pain of toilet cleaning, don’t let the mess build up.  Stick to a routine that has you cleaning your toilet at least once a week.  You should also keep a toilet brush near every toilet in your home as well as a plunger.  Clean any larger messes as soon as you make them.

Before you can begin, you must choose your products.  (Check out my articles on store bought products and home made solutions.)  Make sure that before you begin, you read all manufacturers’ labels on your products so you use them correctly, wear any proper protection, and allow them to sit for the right amount of time.  Never mix chlorine bleach products with ammonia-based ones.

Begin with the bowl of the toilet.  Cover the inside of the bowl with your preferred cleanser specifically targeting toilet bowls.  If you are used a powder cleaner make sure to flush the toilet first to wet the sides of the bowl.  Most toilet bowl cleaners require you to let the cleaner sit and work by itself for a bit.  Depending on the product, this may be before or after scrubbing so check the manufacturer’s label for exact instructions and wait times.

When you do scrub use a bristled toilet brush with a handle.  Make sure to start at the top, under the upper rim, and work your way down into the bowl.  Do not use toilet bowl cleaner on the outside of the toilet.

In your waiting period (when the product is stewing in the toilet bowl) begin work on the outside of the toilet.  It’s important to work from the top down.  It is also often helpful to dust the entire outside of the toilet before applying any kind of wet cleaner because the wet cleaner can turn dry dust into gunk you don’t want to deal with.  After you dust, spray your way down the toilet with all-purpose cleaner, wiping with a clean soft cloth as you go.  You may also just use a few antibacterial wipes if you’d like.  Make sure to attack these areas:

-Top, sides, front, (and back if it needs it) of tank

-Flusher

-Top of lid

-Under lid

-Top of seat

-Under seat

-Top of rim

-Back of toilet (where the seat meets the tank.)  Use a toothbrush for small crevices and bolts.

-Outside of bowl

-Base of toilet including bolts that hold the toilet to the floor.  Sometimes it can be quicker, if there isn’t too much mess, to just mop the base as you’re mopping the floor of the bathroom.

-The crack between the toilet and floor

The inside of the tank of the toilet does not need to be cleaned every time you clean your toilet, but keep an eye on it and if build up is happening make sure to scrub it.

Place baking soda or potpourri on the back part of the toilet to keep the room smelling fresh and you’re done!

 

Want a few domestic cleaning tips that will help you clean less?  The key to speed cleaning is prevention!  Laminate this list and keep it in a noticeable place.  You can check things off and wipe it clean the next day.  Your house will stay tidy and your weekly tasks will seem much less daunting.

  • AVOID CLUTTER
    • Put things away after you’re done with them.
    • Stack things (a little clutter is okay when it is stacked neatly, like magazines, for example)
  • Retrieve and sort mail.
  • Pick up den at the end of the day.
  • Pick up all trash and take it out when it’s full.
  • Make beds and pick up room clutter in the morning.
  • Wash and dry dishes.
    • Immediately after use put dishes in soapy warm water to soak.
    • Hand wash or put in dishwasher after each meal.
    • Make sure you grab dishes from all rooms (if you sometimes snack in your bedroom or living room, for instance).
    • Put the clean dishes away.
  • Wipe kitchen counters after each meal.
  • Hang up bath towels after use.
  • Wipe down or squeegee shower after each use.
  • Put dirty clothing in the hamper.
  • Hang up clean clothing.
  • Clean stains or spills as soon as they happen.
  • Sweep entryway.

To avoid smells in smelly places use baking soda:

  • Sprinkled at the bottom of the trashcan.
  • An open box behind the toilet in the bathroom.
  • Sprinkled at the bottom of the laundry basket (I sometimes use a dryer sheet there instead).
  • In a bowl placed in the microwave between uses.

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Bathrooms are supposed to be the cleanest room in the house but, let’s face it, they are the most awful ones to clean.  It’s a dirty job, but somebody has to do it.  Gather your cleaning supplies together and get to work!  When it is time for general house cleaning, it is a good idea to gather your cleaning supplies in a bin that you can carry around from place to place.  But because bathrooms can need so many different products for a really good clean, you should keep an additional separate bin for the bathrooms.  That bin should contain a soup scum and mildew remover, a basic bathroom surface cleaner, window washing fluid, toilet bowl cleaner, dust rags, sponges, a scrub brush, and floor cleaner.

The first step to cleaning a bathroom – as always – is to do some tidying.  Remove any dirty clothes or dirty towels (rugs too, periodically) and make sure that everything is in its place.  Once the picking-up is out of the way, it’s on to real cleaning.

Because for many of us the hardest part of cleaning the bathroom is cleaning the shower, it’s often best to start there.  (If you have a different least-favorite bathroom cleaning task, make it the first one you tackle.)  The shower takes a lot of elbow grease because it is the most likely place to get a build up of soap scum and mildew if it’s not cleaned on a regular basis.   If the soap scum in the shower is really bad, you can allow the cleaner to soak for a short while before you start scrubbing it.   There are also products that can hang on a showerhead that give a quick spray at the push of a button once someone finishes using the shower, and these can really help to keep the build-up down.  Don’t forget about cleaning the shower curtain or the shower door plus the track.  Be sure to rinse the shower really well with water after you have cleaned it, to get rid of loose dirt and chemicals from the cleaning fluids.

After the shower is cleaned, the next step in cleaning a bathroom is usually cleaning the mirrors, followed by dusting shelves, moldings, door frames and baseboards.   Next, clean the sink including the faucets.  Any product meant to clean bathroom or kitchen surfaces is fine for cleaning the sink.  This also includes any counter tops or the pedestal of a pedestal sink.

After you have cleaned the sink it is time to conquer the dirtiest job in the bathroom — the toilet.  There are several different areas of the toilet, and they all need to be cleaned.  The inside of the toilet can be cleaned with a regular toilet brush and a little bit of toilet bowl cleaner or a disposable toilet bowl cleaner.  The rim of the bowl and the under part of the lid and the seat also must to be wiped clean (particularly if you have boys in your house!).  The pedestal and back of the toilet can be cleaned with a good surface cleaner.

Your next-to-last bathroom task is to mop the floor.

I personally like to use paper towels to clean most surfaces of the bathroom.  Even though it is more eco-friendly to use sponges or rags, there are so many germs floating around the bathroom that I’d rather just use something to clean them that I can throw in the garbage.  Of course, I throw all of the dirty paper towels in the bathroom garbage so that my last step in cleaning the bathroom is emptying the garbage.

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Once you’ve gone to the expense of buying carpeting for your home, it is a worthwhile investment to take care of it.  Keeping a clean carpet also assures a healthy living environment.  What most don’t realize is that regular vacuuming alone does not always ensure that your carpet is clean.

Vacuuming regularly may not keep carpets perfectly clean, but it does prevent dirt from getting imbedded deep down into the fibers.  While it would be ideal to vacuum a carpet daily most of us do not have the time for that.  A more realistic goal is to vacuum all high traffic areas at least twice a week.  As for technique, you’ll get the best results if vacuum slowly over an area going back and forth and side to side in parallel rows for about seven strokes.

But, as noted, carpet cleaning goes beyond vacuuming.  Occasional shampooing of a carpet is a popular method to get carpets cleaner.  A shampoo solution is sprayed onto the carpet which loosens and absorbs deep dirt.  Allow the carpet to dry, and then vacuum.  Another popular but somewhat more expensive method of carpet cleaning is steam cleaning.  This process uses a liquid-based cleaning agent and a steam-cleaning machine which brings dirt to the carpet’s surface.

Shampooing and steam carpet cleaning are both great ways to get dirty carpets clean, but what about keeping carpets free of stains in the first place?  Of course, it’s impossible to completely avoid stains – at some point, someone will track dirt on their shoes or spill a drink. The key here is to act quickly on any stain.  The longer the liquid is left on the floor, the more of a chance it has to set in.  Blot up any extra liquid as best you can.  Never rub the carpet fibers.  Rubbing only causes the fibers in the carpet to weaken and ultimately can create a worn spot.  A number of brands of carpet cleaners work very well in removing stains, but there are also a few home remedies that will work just as well.  Blotting club soda on a stain with a clean, dry cloth really does works wonders.  Baking soda and corn starch are good for removing oil spots.  Straight vinegar has also been known to remove chocolate and coffee stains.

There are also a few extra simple things that you can do everyday to keep your carpets clean.  Make your home a “shoe free” home.  That doesn’t mean bare feet – natural oils from our feet can do a number on carpets as well, so wear socks or slippers in the house.  Keep an entrance mat by the front door.  Make sure that the mat is long enough to be able to give guests room to come in, wipe their feet, close the door, and take off their shoes.  Spare slippers along the mat can be a nice courtesy and a gentle prompt for guests to remove shoes.  You should also place a mat outside the house.  This will remove the larger particles of dirt before anyone enters the home.  (Don’t forget to keep this mat clean as well — when a mat reaches a point when it can no longer hold anymore dirt, the dirt ends up making it into the house anyway).

As long as you give our carpets the time and energy they deserve, you will be able to enjoy this investment for many years to come.

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It’s critical to use the right cleaning supplies when housework looms.  That is because using the right products is often vital to keeping the surfaces you are cleaning from getting damaged.  The wrong products can also create more effort and ultimately take up much more time when a better product will remove the dirt more easily.

Before you buy any cleaning product, be sure to read the label carefully.  The label should name the product’s uses and any important precautions.  Keep in mind that products labeled “all-purpose” may not be good for every surface when you look more carefully at the smaller print on the label.  Products that contain strong chemicals like ammonia may permanently damage laminates or other plastic surfaces.  Anything that is labeled for use on “nonporous surfaces” should not be used on granite or other stone surfaces.  Sometimes all you need is a mild soap with warm water, so while using the right products is important don’t assume that means you need to use the strongest cleaners for everything.

Whether you are doing a light clean or a deep spring clean, it is a good idea to get your essential cleaning supplies together before you start your cleaning.  But, what are the essential supplies that will be needed most often?  Well, think about the things that you plan to clean that day.  Start from the ceiling and work your way down to the floor.

One essential cleaning supply would be rags to dust cobwebs in the corners, ceiling fan blades, and the tops of shelves and ledges.  While there are a lot of products out that advertise “a better way to dust,” the truth is that an old rag will work just as well as these new products.  Socks that have lost their mates are great candidates for dust rags, especially since you can wash and reuse them.  For cobwebs, rags are all you need, but if you are dusting shelves and ledges a touch of furniture polish will help.

Another essential cleaning supply to add to your cleaning kit would be window washing liquid.  Most brand name products advertise a streak free shine with their product but truly bargain brands are just as effective – the trick is to avoid using paper towels that leave particles behind.   Use a cloth instead.

Other essential cleaning supplies include anti-bacterial sprays.  There are a lot of products out there that work well and are specifically made for cleaning different parts of the house.  Most are okay to use on an array of surfaces.  So, in your cleaning kit, I’d advise that you keep two — a spray that is specifically designed to clean hard soap scum and mildew, and a milder spray that can be used on kitchen or bathroom surfaces.

The last thing to clean in a room is the floor.  Mop, bucket, and floor cleaner are essential for cleaning a non-carpeted area but it is hardly practical to carry these things from room to room.  Keep these things together and pull them out when you are ready to use them.  Instead, keep a rug freshener like a powder or spray in your cleaning kit.

When your cleaning supplies are organized and easily accessible, the job of regular household cleaning can be fast, easy and efficient.

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Anyone trying to maintain a clean and organized home knows that clutter is the number one stumbling block, but surprisingly few people really know how to get clutter free.  When the clutter piles up, those more serious cleaning tasks like dusting and vacuuming have to get put on the backburner.   Often by the time you’ve gotten around to making a room clutter free, you are too tired (and demoralized) to keep going.  You never get around to the real cleaning.  Luckily there are steps that can be taken to keep that clutter from taking over to the point of overwhelming you.

The biggest most common clutter culprit is, of course, paper.  Paper!  That’s mail, magazines, newspapers, work papers and school papers that make their way into your home, keeping you from becoming clutter free.   While we can’t completely escape paper, we can get organized to keep the paper from cluttering up the house.

clutter free?

My eyes -- they burn!

One key to getting and staying clutter free is to through the mail right away when you pick it up.  It’s best to have a wastebasket close to the front door, and toss the junk mail before you even enter your house.   Keep the bills and march them over to your “to do” file immediately.   It can be useful to have that file or basket hung on the wall in the place that makes the most sense for you.  That might be near your computer desk, in the kitchen, or in the foyer, depending upon how you tend to tackle those tasks.   Stamps and address stickers should be located in or near that basket. Other important papers also need to find a home right away – otherwise, that pile of “file later” will remain there forever, and you’ll never be on your way to clutter free.  Keep a recycle bin for your newspapers right next to your main garbage can so you can take them out together.

Kid’s papers can get very tricky if you really want to be clutter free.  Most parents know that feeling of being torn between wanting to keep everything their kids make and wishing that all that paper would just go way.   Have a storage bin and trash can near wherever your child leaves his or her backpack every day.  That way, you can put important or memorable projects in the bin and immediately discard daily flyers and graded homework papers that aren’t worth keeping.   At the end of every few months, decide what from the projects bin will “make the cut” for inclusion in a larger storage bin that might stay in an attic or under the bed that you and your child can look back on fondly one day.

Here are pointers for getting clutter free from other types of items.  Will you use the item again?  Be honest! If it’s been over a year since the item has seen the light of day, chances are you will not use it.  For things that remain in good working order, consider selling (via ebay, craigslist, or a yard sale) or donating to a local charity.  Things that are very worn or no longer working need to be tossed.   If you are on the fence about an item, hang on to it for six months and see if you use it in that time period.  If you don’t, out it goes — you’re one step closer to clutter free.

Seasonal items can be stored in an attic, basement or another storage space to help you get clutter free so that they do not interfere with your daily living and cleaning routine.  I know I often buy out-of-season items because they are on sale – and then struggle to find them when I am ready to use them.   Plastic stackable drawers that are clear are terrific for keeping storage items organized and accessible.  (Drawers are usually better than boxes, because boxes get stacked one on top of the other making items difficult to reach when you need them.)

Finally, if you really want to be clutter free, if something is broken, damaged or stained, throw it out.  This applies to all items, not just seasonal ones.   Unless you really are a big project fiend, don’t fool yourself into thinking you will fix a broken item.  More than likely you’ll just waste time working around that thing sitting on the table or shelf that should really be in the garbage.

Get clutter free first, and you’ll be amazed at how much easier your cleaning chores become.

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It’s no surprise that people like their homes to be neat and tidy – after all, even animals like to keep the places they live clean!  But, for many of us, the work of house cleaning isn’t easy or intuitive. We want a roadmap — a set of speed cleaning tips.

For anyone hoping to wrangle order and cleanliness into their home, the big question is – you got it — where do you start?  The job of cleaning can appear so overwhelming that sometimes we want to stop before we even begin (am I right?).  So, before lugging out your cleaning equipment and supplies, start by tidying up the space you plan to clean.  With everything in its rightful place, you won’t be constantly starting and stopping the real cleaning to pick items up off of the floor or move the junk mail off the dining table.  You may not realize it, but this part of the cleaning is really the most strenuous. By using your energy to tackle the hardest part first, you’re less likely to run out of steam halfway through the cleaning job.  Even better, an orderly environment is much, much quicker to clean.

You can also get a head start and keep your cleaning routine organized by collecting all of your essential cleaning products for the room you are cleaning before you begin.  A small lightweight bin for carrying products around the room will help.  Typical products you should consider keeping in the bin are a window cleaner, antibacterial spray, carpet cleaner, and dust rags.   Make sure you have invested in good quality cleaning products that really work.  There’s no sense in wasting time trying to clean a dirty spot with an inferior product – you will just end up re-cleaning things that did not get cleaned well the first go-round.  Keep a smallish garbage bag tucked into that lightweight bin, too – this will keep you from having to run back and forth to the garbage can.

So now you are beginning with a tidy room and with supplies in hand.  It’s best to start from the top of the room and move your way down towards the floor.  Hit those cobwebs in the corners first, then dust shelves from the top down.  Finish with the floor.  This way, you avoid having a nice clean floor dirtied by new dust coming down as you clean.  It’s also important to clean one room at a time.  This might seem obvious, but you may be surprised at how often you run from room to room almost unconsciously when you don’t have a plan of attack. If you get one room thoroughly clean you will walk away with a sense of accomplishment, and you’ll save time and energy in the long run too.

Keeping a clean home is essential for a number of reasons.  Most of us notice when we enter someone else’s home immediately whether the house is clean or not.  That means your visitors are going to notice it too.  Further, homes that stay dirty are more likely to spread germs and cause illness for the people living in them.   Wherever you find dirt and moisture in combination, bacteria grows.  If you can keep those surfaces clean your family has its best chance to stay healthy.

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